Three words, three very different fabrics
- Water-repellent — a DWR (durable water repellent) finish makes water bead and roll off the surface. Good for light rain and splash; the effect wears with washing.
- Water-resistant — a coated or tightly woven cloth that resists water penetration up to a limited pressure. Fine for showers, not for submersion.
- Waterproof — a laminate or membrane (PU, TPU, PVC) that blocks water passage entirely, rated by hydrostatic head.
Hydrostatic head: the number that matters
Hydrostatic head measures the water column a fabric withstands before leaking:
- < 1000 mm — shower-resistant, indoor-outdoor décor.
- 1000–3000 mm — light outdoor coverings.
- 3000–10000 mm — serious outdoor furniture, awnings, boat covers.
- 10,000+ mm — marine and heavy-duty protection.
Coating vs lamination
- PU coating — applied to the back of the cloth; economical, good water blocking, but adds stiffness and may crack in extreme cold.
- TPU lamination — bonded film; flexible, durable, breathable options available; used in premium marine fabrics.
- PVC — the classic truck-cover material; maximum toughness at the cost of weight and feel.
How to specify
- Ask the question first: how wet, how often, how long?
- Match the hydrostatic head to exposure — do not over-buy marine ratings for patio cushions.
- Check the repellent finish type (C6/C0) for market regulations and eco-positioning.
The finish is 30% of the cost and 90% of the wet-weather promise — specify it, test it, and put the number on the datasheet.
Water beads, or water stays — the finish decides.
— KCK.Fabric Trade Team
Comments (3)
“Exactly the breakdown we needed before committing to a private-label run.”
“We switched to compressed models last season and warehouse cost dropped noticeably.”
“Quality held up well after unboxing. Foam recovery was faster than expected.”